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Jet Program Overview

Rule Number 1: "everyone's situation is different".

This should be the official motto of JET since there is nothing more true than this, your experience on the JET Program is largely influenced by the people around you. When reading this you should keep this in mind there are no absolutes. Rural Aomori is quite different from downtown Tokyo, even so there is a lot of common ground.

There is much well meaning advice offered, often wrong or misleading. Many people think their own experience is typical and you usually only hear the good stuff. Based on the experiences of JETs, we've tried to reflect the most common experiences and needs of JETs pointing out where differences are likely, and hopefully without being negative, pointing out where you may have problems.

Remember as they say in the Hitchers Guide to the Universe

DON'T PANIC!

Every year thousands of young people come to Japan on the JET Program, the majority have a great time, some leave disappointed, and a few should never have come. Regardless, your time in Japan will have a lasting positive effect on you.

What is the JET Program?
The JET Program was instigated by the Japanese government in 1987, one of the most important reasons was to put native English speakers into all areas of Japan to assist with English instruction. Teaching English is an important part of the program but the official JET page (link) says:

"The Japan Exchange and Teaching Program seeks to help enhance internationalization in Japan, by promoting mutual understanding between Japan and other nations."

These are terms that are used a lot in Japan, particularly at the local government and community level. You'd be forgiven for being a bit cynical about these terms but outside the major cities of Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto there are not many foreigners. JET participants (usually called JETs) are the only foreigners that many people will meet. Often a heavy burden, a JET is both an ambassador for his or her own country and most of the rest of the world.

There are three broad job types.

  1. Assistant Language Teacher (ALT)

    ALTs make up the vast majority of JET positions. Formerly known as Assistant English Teachers, many languages including French and Chinese are now included. ALTs mostly work at junior and senior high schools assisting the Japanese Teachers of English (JTEs), although there is a growing number working at elementary schools.

    Junior high school ALTs often have two schools as one school is not big enough to support an ALT; one school may be the base school where you attend social events. Some single shot ALT positions still exist. Single shot ALTs visit many schools making one visit a term or year.

    Because of the size of high schools, high school ALTs tend to be at only one school, although some schools have one and a half ALTs, sharing one ALT with another school.

    Almost all junior high schools are run by the local municipality, but senior high schools are widely varied, including academic, trade and privately owned as well as for disabled. ALTs can be assigned to schools for disabled students.

    It should be noted that there are ALTs who are not on the JET Program. Typically schools in the large cities employ ALTs directly usually because they want more control over who they accept, the richer schools employing well-educated experienced teachers.

    Finally, no Japanese ability is required to be an ALT.

  2. Coordinator for International Relations (CIR)

    Most CIRs work at city and prefectural government offices, often associated with the mayors' or governors' office. Both the duties and the institutions they work for vary greatly but typically they help organise international cultural events, sister-city relationships, and translation. CIRs often do visits to kindergarten and elementary schools.

    A good level of Japanese is required.

  3. Sports Exchange Advisor (SEA)

    SEAs assist with the development of sport in Japan. They are a small minority amongst JETs with only around 40 participants in 1999/2000. A breakdown of SEA sports and location are available.

One eternal annoyance is you can only apply for one category. This is a problem if you are unsure of your Japanese ability, do not know if you would be accepted as a CIR but willing to be an ALT. Getting an idea of the required ability is extremely difficult. If you are at JLPT proficiency level 2 then you should have no problem. Level 3 is probably not good enough, you should be expecting to pass the level 2 sometime after starting as a CIR. You might like to approach the JET personnel at your local embassy or consulate, they may be happy to give you a better guide.

Your time on the JET Program is strictly limited to 3 years. You originally contract for one year, with renewals offered twice. If you enjoy your time as an ALT there are many other similar opportunities in Japan outside the JET Program.

The JET Program is like a job agency. Local institutions such as schools decide the number of positions they require, then the Japanese Education Department (Monbusho) allocates quotas to Japanese embassies and consulates around the world who accept and screen applications, but JETs are employed by the local institutions. The embassies and consulates arrange initial information sessions, visa and travel arrangements to Tokyo.

In Tokyo Monbusho looks after the orientation program then the individual JETs are whisked off to their new home by their local institution. From then on the local institution is solely responsible for the JET.

Each JET has a supervisor (tantousha) who can be a teacher or official at the local board of education. The supervisor is responsible for helping the JET in all areas including arranging bank accounts, bill payments, accommodation and time off. The relationship with supervisors is perhaps the most important part of a JET's life. If your supervisor is a fellow teacher you may find she (most likely) is not happy about being your supervisor or is unaware what it is like for you, she may resent your "leisurely" life. This should be the exception but you'll need to gauge your relationship carefully at first. In general supervisors at the Board of Education are better, more helpful and lenient with time off. If your supervisor is at a Board of Education then he (most likely) is senior to everyone at your school, if you get permission from him then agreement from the school staff is pretty well guaranteed. "Mr X said it was OK to go to Kyoto next week but to check with you first".

Japanese Education System
The Japanese education system was based on the German system around 1870. There are 6 years of elementary school. Elementary students generally don't wear uniform although they often have a school cap or sports style uniform. Junior high school is 3 years; uniforms are worn and generally strictly enforced. Junior high school boys wear a uniform based on a 19th Century Prussian military uniform and they are extremely proud of it. The girls uniforms vary but the most common is said to resemble a sailors uniform.

Elementary and junior high school is compulsory. The schools are administered by the city education office, or in large cities a regional office within the city, and are very community focused. There are private elementary and junior high schools but they are uncommon. Most Japanese have good memories of junior high school. There is a big difference between elementary school and junior high school. Children go through their biggest changes physically and mentally at junior high school. Being a junior high school teacher can be very rewarding, watching "your children" grow up but seeing the stress the third years go through can be upsetting.

High school is 3 years and is not compulsory. High schools are specialised and many have rigorous entry requirements. High schools often specialise in trade courses, and various academic areas. Admission to university depends on which high school the student attended and so competition for entry into some high schools is very strong. Most high schools are run by the prefectural government (or equivalent) but there are many private high schools. The uniforms vary considerably but many schools have the Prussian style uniforms for the boys. Every day there is huge migration of students cross Japan, many students have long commutes.

One of the advantages of being a high school ALTs is the students are more mature, their English level (may be) higher and you can relate to them more as adults.

Japan
Everything you ever heard about Japan is both true and false. The stereotypes of ladies wearing kimono while visiting ancient temples, carrying the latest mobile phone and taking photos of each other with them is true. The Shinkansen (Bullet Train) in front of Mt Fuji, harried salary men crowded into Tokyo subway trains, and far too much cute stuff, is all true.

But Japan is people going about their lives with the all aspirations and troubles anyone else has. The JET Program gives participants a unique opportunity to become involved in the centre of life for young people.

In Japan, school is a more important part of life than in many countries. Junior high schools, particularly, are the centre of community. You see students in uniform at all times, socialising in the city, at local festivals, even on national holidays. Many Japanese people remember junior high school with a fondness others will find unusual.

Japan is a land of extreme contrasts and polarised experiences, there never seems to be any middle ground. The cities are crowded and often noisy but most of the country is rugged mountains unsuitable for living. The effect is often a 30 minute train ride is all that is needed to go from downtown chaos to a quiet mountain hamlet.

Weather
Contrary to what many Japanese people may tell you the weather is fairly consistent between north and south. Summer, even in Hokkaido, is hot and humid, temperatures are surprisingly similar throughout Japan. If you are coming from a Southern Hemisphere winter it can be quite debilitating at first.

Winter is cold. In January Tokyo often has maximums as low as 0°C (32°F) but minimums are not much lower than -5°C. To Europeans and North Americans it won't be much of a surprise, but to those from tropical and temperate climates it takes some getting used to. Everywhere to the north of Tokyo gets snow; it snows only occasionally in Tokyo. To the south of Tokyo there is very little snow but the Pacific coast can get strong cold winds. Rain tends to be concentrated, resulting in many fine clear days throughout the year; winters are often very dry. Access to ski fields from most of Japan is very easy.

Spring and autumn are very pleasant; April and November are probably the best months.

Typhoons occasionally strike the southern areas, July to September, but they are well tracked so you will get plenty of warning if one is approaching, and a day off school. Rainy season is June to July but there is a great variation between years. Overall there is not a lot of rain in Japan, and weather forecasts are extremely accurate.

Living conditions
Japan cities and suburbs are not the prettiest places in the world. Nagoya, Nara, Hiroshima, Sapporo and Nagasaki are far more pleasant in comparison. Except for downtown areas power lines are above ground and often there seems to be little control or interest taken in landscaping suburbs. The regional cities and suburbs can be quite nice though.

Surprisingly the massive metropolis of Tokyo has many nice parks and from anywhere in Japan the mountains are not far away. Unfortunately there are very few rivers that reach the ocean without concrete walls.

Japan is very homogenous. Suburbs and regional cities have all the same facilities as major cities, however access to the foods that you are used to, and English language books can be restricted.

The local phone operator NTT charges exorbitant prices ($US800 to buy a line) which has largely contributed to the growth of mobile phones. Cable Internet, IDSN or Broad-band are available but probably not practical for JETs unless you are planning to stay for several years and won't be moving. Many JETs have Internet access at school or Board of Education.

Accommodation
Most JETs find they have to lower their expectations.

Municipality based JETs (as opposed to prefectural JETs, high school ALT and prefectural CIRs) often live in the same apartment that has been used for years. This is a twin edge sword; everyone knows where you live but most of the problems have been sorted out. Hopefully the previous JET has left things in a reasonable state.

High school and prefectural-based JETs may be moving in to a newly occupied apartment and will have to face problems with furnishing, telephones etc.

Hopefully no one should have to pay key money (a non-refundable payment to the landlord which is usually worth a month's rent, and sometimes more) and deposits although this does happen.

Most JETs find themselves outside the major cities and their apartments are more generous than Osaka and Tokyo standards, some even have houses. However the standards are generally much lower than what they are used to. Central heating is generally unknown in Japan. Many apartments have heat pump air-conditioning but it is very expensive while kerosene heaters are cheap and surprisingly common. Most JETs complain about the cold. Kitchens are very basic, often only two gas ranges and a sink. Ovens are very rare although combined microwave and electric ovens are growing in popularity. Some apartments do not have hot running water but have a separate heater for the kitchen sink and shower. Many apartments have Japanese squat toilets, which can be a big problem for those who are not used to one.

JETs in rural areas can have very basic facilities, no hot running water and long drop toilet.

Food
Food shopping will take some getting used to. Many JETs are young and have never really had to look after themselves, but for anyone the first visit to a Japanese supermarket is memorable. For example, you've never seen so many different types of noodles in your life.

Most diary products are available, including a good range of yoghurt and soft cheese such as Camembert. Hard cheese is not so readily available with the exception of Red Cheddar, and vintage cheese is practically unheard of. Low fat and calcium enriched milk is not as readily available as elsewhere. Soymilk is available in supermarkets.

Fish, seafood, chicken and pork are cheap and well supplied. Basic vegetables such as broccoli, carrots, potatoes, lettuce, tomato, onions, and cabbage are readily available and are of very good quality. Fruit is also very good but expensive. Some fruit and vegetables such as tropical fruits are simply not available unless you go to larger, or more specialist supermarkets.

Beef and breakfast cereals are expensive. A monthly trip to the regional city maybe required to stock up on cereals. Japanese bread can be strange to some, coming in slices an inch thick and having no fibre. If you like sturdier bread you will find it difficult to get a good supply, after 6 months you will dream of dark rye bread topped with cream cheese.

It might be a good idea to seek out for Brazilian shops since they have a wonderful selection of spices, juices, candy and cheap beef, around 1200 yen for 1 kilogram (2.2 pounds). They'll probably assume you are Brazilian and speak to you in Portuguese.

By the way Japan uses the metric system

1 kilogram = 1000 grams = 2.2 pounds

1 litre/liter = 1.76 pints

See shopping in the links section.

Money
A typical budget (in yen) is

Gross pay300,000
Tax and social security30,000
Rent20,000
Electricity3,000
(air conditioning can
send this up to 8,000+)
Gas3,000
Water3,000
Phone10,000
Net in hand230,000

The biggest variables are rent and transport (and beer). Junior high school ALTs and city CIRs tend to get looked after a bit better, 20,000 yen for rent is typical but up to 60,000 yen is not unusual. Other factors are transport costs. Many ALTs have no transport costs but it could easily be 1000 to 2000 yen a day, rural and inter-city buses tend to be expensive.

You should be able to live on 100,000 yen a month with plenty of opportunity to have fun, saving around 100,000 yen a month. However travel is expensive, for example Nagoya to Tokyo by shinkansen (bullet train) is around 10,000 yen one way and accommodation around 5,000 yen a night. During vacation it is cheaper to go to Thailand, Vietnam and The Philippines than stay in Japan for two weeks. Even going home might be cheaper.

Tax arrangements vary depending on your country of origin. Your institution should offer you a taxation form which decides whether tax is taken out of your salary or not. Many countries have a tax treaty with Japan, if you pay tax in Japan you are not expected to pay tax on that income in your home country; but there are exceptions. If you have investments and an income stream in your home country check with an accountant you may be better off not paying tax in Japan but paying it at home. Make sure you know as this could cost a lot of money. If this sounds confusing don't worry, your home embassy or consulate will advise you what to do, unless you are a special case (ie rich) follow their instructions. Don't rely on advice from your institution they won't know.

Your pension contributions are refunded after you leave; you have to leave the country, have your work visa cancelled, and hand in your Alien Registration Card on the way out. The amount is 300,000 for one year, 600,000 for two years and 900,000 for three years. Nice savings plan for 3 year JETs! The procedure will be explained and forms provided when you leave.

Don't let any teacher tell you that you are rich or over paid. It is a fallacy that ALTs are paid more than teachers do. The base salary of an ALT is higher than a junior teacher, only just, but teachers receive bonuses of around 3 month's salary, or more. Of course you travelled along way for this job. If this is an issue, point out you left everything you own and only brought a single small piece of luggage.

Transport
Junior high school ALTs and CIRs often live close to work so the most practical solution is the ubiquitous bicycle or even walking. During winter or rainy periods you will find most teachers or colleagues will be happy to pick you up, although you will find yourself getting to work a lot earlier, getting home might be a problem.

High school ALTs and prefectural CIRs may find they live quite a distance from work and need to rely on trains and buses.

Trains are highly reliable, comfortable and generally easy to use. Timetables and the fare maps are usually only in Japanese. You'll need to learn a few kanji.

Buses are generally more expensive and more difficult to use mainly because route maps are hard to come by. Detailed information is provided at bus stops but is extremely difficult to understand. At your local convenience store you should be able to buy good quality and detailed maps of your city and prefecture. Get someone to explain in detail where all the buses run. You may find that a bus route is more direct than trains.

Many boards of education actively discourage car ownership but you can largely ignore this, about all they can do is stop you using your car for work purposes. CLAIR explicitly states that no one can stop you owning a car. Owning a car is not onerous but you must have proof of a car parking space, have a current shaken (roadworthiness), and good insurance. Be aware that an accident in Japan can be very expensive as car owners expect their cars to be restored to perfect condition.

Warning on Drugs
Every year one or two JETs get arrested for drugs, usually marijuana.

Japan does NOT have a relaxed attitude to drugs although in some of the seedier parts of the big cities drugs are common. Marijuana possession can result in a 10 year prison sentence. If you get caught you will be completely abandoned by all your colleagues. Whatever your habits are at home Japan is not the place to indulge. Police have very strong powers of search and arrest.


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