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Yakushiji temple

Yakushiji is one of the seven great temples of Nara. It is part of the Hosso sect, founded by Xuanzang (JPN: Genjo) in China around 630, and established in Japan by the middle of the 7th century.

Yakushiji temple was planned by Emperor Temmu in 680, but was actually constructed by his Empress (Jito) after the Emperor's death. Ironically, the Emperor had commissioned the temple to pray for the recovery of the Empress from a serious illness. Yakushiji was originally constructed in Fujiwara-kyo south of Nara (present day Kashihara city), and was finally completed in 698. The temple was moved to its present location in 718, after the capital was moved to the north of Nara in 710.

Today the Yakushiji temple compound consists of several buildings including the Kondo (main hall), the Kodo (lecture hall), the East and West Pagodas, and the Toindo (East Hall). Most of the original buildings of the temple were destroyed over the years by fires, warfare or natural disasters. However, the East Pagoda has survived, and is the only architecture from the 7th century Hakuoh period in Japan. The other building that is not a recent restoration is the Toindo. This was initially rebuilt in 1285, and underwent extensive restoration in 1733. These two buildings are visually distinct from the others as they have not been painted in the red and white style. The other buildings in the complex are recent restorations built during the past 30 years.

The approach to Yakushiji is along a winding path that passes the Yasumigaoka Hachimangu. This building was constructed in 1603 and is still used to celebrate the Hachiman Festival on September 15th. If you visit at this time, you may be lucky enough to see the local children's sumo competition. Continue along the path and you will eventually come to the Chumon (middle gate). This is also where you pay for admission. When you enter the temple complex, the first buildings that you come to are the pagodas. In the Nara period pagodas were the most important buildings in the temple. The original West Pagoda (Saito) was burned down in 1528. The current pagoda was reconstructed in 1981 and now stores sacred relics from Gandhara, India.

The East Pagoda (Toto), as mentioned earlier, is the original structure from the 7th century. Although it looks like it has six stories, it actually only has three. The other three "stories" are additional lean-to roofs (mokoshi) and are a bit smaller than those of the three main stories. This roof style is rare and is know as "frozen music" because of its rhythmical appearance. The other remarkable feature of the Toto is the roof ornament, the Sorin. It is made of bronze, has a height of 10 meters, and weighs approximately 3000kg. The Sorin is composed of six elements: Hoju (the Sacred Jewel), Ryusha (the Dragon Vehicle), Suien (the Water Flame), Kurin (the Nine Rings), Fukubachi (the Lotus Flower), and Roban (the Inverted Bowl). The Nine Rings represent the Buddhist deities and the Water Flame is a charm to protect the pagoda from fire. In addition to its religious symbolism, the Sorin is important to the structural stability of a pagoda as well as serving as a lightning rod.

Behind the Pagodas lies the Kondo (Main Hall) which was restored in 1976 and houses the three statues that comprise the Yakushi Triad. These statues are made of bronze and date from the Hakuho Period (645-710). The Triad consists of the Yakushi Nyorai seated between Nikko (Bosatsu of the Sun) to the right and Gakko (Bosatsu of the Moon) to the left. They were originally covered with gold, but the fire of 1528 gave them their current rich black color. The Yakushi Nyorai (Buddha of Healing) is worshiped to cure disease of the mind and body as well as for long life. The Yakushi Nyorai typically holds a medicine pot in his left hand, but in this case he is sitting on a medicine chest instead. The designs on the chest are significant as they combine elements from the cultures of Greece (grape-vine scroll pattern along the top edge), the Middle-East (lotus design from ancient Persia), India (barbarians crouching in the archways) and China (animal designs on each side: dragon on the east, phoenix on the south, tiger on the west, and tortoise on the north). This combination reflects an awareness in Hakuho-period Nara of the influence of "Silk Road" trade as a conveyer of not only goods but also of ideas and knowledge.

Behind the Kondo and just beyond the Daikodo (large building, recently completed) are the Higashisobo (East Dormitories). These house reproductions of the temple's significant pieces and give you the opportunity to see the art work in more detail. Among the reproductions are the Medicine Chest and the Sorin from the East Pagoda. Souvenirs displaying the Temple's artwork can be bought here.

The Toindo (East Hall) is located behind the covered walkway next to the East Pagoda. The Toindo was originally built in the Yoro Period (717-724), but the current building dates from the Kamakura period (1185*-1333). It stands on columns to protect it from moisture and water damage. The Sho Kannon (Merciful Deity) is worshipped here and heals pain and suffering; it is considered to be one of the most beautiful depictions of Kannon. Also on display are the Shi Tennon (Four Heavenly Kings) which protect the Kannon. The guardian kings show the evolution of Buddhism as it traveled from India to Japan. The Shi Tenno were originally four ancient devas in India. They were introduced to Buddhism as guardian kings and placed around Shumisen (believed to be a huge mountain in the middle of the universe). In China, the four guardian kings were mixed with the four Chinese gods that represent the four corners of the world. The names of the Chinese gods signified four colors (blue, red, white and black). The Shi Tennos' faces now reflect these colors. In the Toindo the Shi Tenno are arranged around Sho Kannon; green faced Jikokuten in the East, red faced Zochoten in the south, white faced Komokuten in the west and black faced Tamonten in the north.

(*The Kamakura Period is also often written as dating from 1192. Minamoto no Yoritomo exercised power from Kamakura immediately after the battle of Dan-no-ura in 1185, marking the formal end of the Heian Period. However 1192 is often listed is because that was the year he was formally commissioned as Shogun, even though the new government in Kamakura was 7 years old and well entrenched by this time).

GENJO SANZO COMPLEX

Your ticket to Yakushiji also includes a visit to the Genjo Sanzo complex, located behind the Yakushiji Temple grounds. This complex was completed in 1991 and is dedicated to Genjo Sanzo (Xuanzang /Hsuan Tsang), the 7th-century Chinese priest credited with the first teaching of the Hosso School of thought, although his disciple, Jion-daish, is considered the founder of the sect. The complex contains memorials and artworks commemorating the life and travels of Genjo. The center of the complex also includes a building (the Garan), where some of his remains are enshrined. The grave of Genjo Sanzo was located by Imperial Japanese Army units stationed in Nanjiang in 1942, and in 1944 some of these remains were bequested to the Japan Buddhist Federation and relocated to Japan, where they were enshrined in Jionji temple in Saitama. Some of these remains were subsequently received by Yakushiji, and enshrined in the Garan in 1991.

Annual Events at Yakushiji:
Jan 1-3New Years Mass and New Year gathering for copying the sutra
Jan 15Incense Ceremony and Tea Ceremony
Feb 3Setsubun Mass and Star Festival
Mar 30 - Apr 5Shunie-haneshiki
Apr 29 - May 5Special Exhibit of Treasure of Yakushiji
May 4, 5The Hsuan Tsang Festival
July 7Benten Festival
Aug 13 -15Obon Festival: honoring spirits of the dead
Aug 23Jizo Festival: savior of children and those suffering in hell
Sept 15Hachiman Festival
Oct 9, 10Mass for Emperor Temmu and 1000 lanterns
Oct 8 - Nov. 10Special Exhibits of Kichijo Tennyo
Nov 13Jion-ne: memorial ceremony for founder of Hosso sect
Dec 29End-of-the-year cleaning
Dec 31New Year's Eve Bells

How to get to Yakushiji

1: From Kintetsu or JR Nara Station:

Bus Route Horyuji-mae: (via Toshodaiji-higashiguchi & Yakushiji-higashiguchi); bus # 52, 97, 98; time--18 minutes
Bus Route Rokujoyama: (via Toshodaiji & Yakushiji); bus #63, 70; time--20 minutes

Tours - The Japan Discovery Tours visits Yakushiji
Click here for more information regarding when Discovery visits this destination.

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