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"I love
My hut
At the foot of the Moon-awaiting Mountain
And the reflection
Of the sinking sky"
Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa (1436-1490)

Introduction

Worshipper at the Hondo

Ginkaku-ji was not originally a temple. Ashikaga Yoshimasa (1436-1490), the 8th Ashikaga Shogun and grandson of Ashikaga Yoshimitsu (constructor of Kinkaku-ji, the temple of the golden pavilion) began construction in 1460 but was prevented from immediately completing his retirement villa due to the Onin Wars (1467-1477).

The Onin wars were a series of senseless conflicts in which most of Kyoto was destroyed (Kyoto was the actual battlefield) caused in part by his selection of an heir to the title of Shogun. Having no children of his own, Yoshimasa initially opted for his younger brother to succeed him. However, in 1465 his wife bore a son and split factions formed each laying claim to the title "Shogun". The ten year war ripped Kyoto apart (miraculously Yoshimasa's villa was untouched) and even after the war was over, skirmishes continued throughout the country. Although Yoshimasa abdicated his position of shogun to his son in 1473, his brother's son was named Shogun after Yoshimasa's son's death in 1489, making up for the earlier slight.

The Silver Pavilion

Ginkaku became Yoshimasa's escape from the ravages of the civil war. Construction of what was known as Higashiyamadono - the palace of the Eastern Mountains, was eventually resumed in 1480. Yoshimasa relocated to Higashiyamadono in 1483 and lived there, holding Noh plays, tea ceremonies, and enjoying things of an aesthetic nature until his death in 1490. The construction of buildings and the garden continued until his death. By 1490 a total of 12 buildings and an expansive garden had been completed. Following in his grandfather's footsteps (Ashikaga Yoshimitsu), Yoshimasa had his villa turned into a Zen Buddhist temple after his death. He also had the temple named Joshi-ji, after his Buddhist name.

After his death the temple began to dilapidate and it was in a sad state by 1615, when a major restoration was begun by the Shokoku School. So extensive were the renovations that very few of the garden's stone arrangements were left in their original positions. The temple today, though not the palace created by Yoshimasa, is still an impressive assembly of traditional Japanese landscaping and architecture that is a must see during your stay in Kyoto.

Guide

The Togu-do & Pond

The Togu-do

As you come through the garden wall you turn left on the path and come to the Hondo or (Spirit Hall). The Hondo contains an image of Sakyamuni and a seat with drums used for worship, however to protect the fragile building the temple has been forced to close it to the general public. There is a fantastic view of the Sand Garden from this vantage point.

In between the Hondo and the next building is a tiny garden graced with a Priest's Robe style stone water basin. There is also a large Uzumasa style granite lantern. Walking through this garden we come to the oldest building of the Shoin-zukuri style, the Togu-do. It is thought that Yoshimasa took up residence in this building while living at the villa. Constructed in 1487 the building is one of the only two structures remaining from the original villa. (The other being the Silver Pavilion, and the pond.) Inside the Togu-do is a wooden statue of Yoshimasa. The legend says that the shogun carved this statue himself and fixed it with crystal eyes. Also inside the Togu-do is a small unit known as the Dojin-sai.

Natural spring used for water for tea ceremony

Just behind the Togu-do is the water source of the pond and stream, where Yoshimasa collected water for his tea ceremonies. This small spring is still active today, supplying crystal clear water for exclusive tea ceremonies.

View of part of the sand garden

From the Hondo and Togu-do if you turn around you can see the first part of the grand garden. This garden is divided into two parts, though the first part may not really seem like the image of a garden that you have in mind. This is a karaesanisui garden (dry garden) called Ginshaden or the Sea of Silver Sand. The "garden" consists of a 2 foot platform of sand that covers 0.71 hectares (1.75 acres) that is meant to be viewed as a sea, though the lines are far too straight and perfect to create such a clear illusion. Despite this, it is truly a wonderful sight that you can lose yourself in. The highly labor intensive maintenance of the garden requires that the platform walls be reshaped and the garden re-raked everyday. Watching the temple staff reshape the walls you can easily develop an immediate appreciation for the work of art before you. Though amazing at any time of the day, the best view of the garden is said to be at night with a full moon shining on the sand, making it truly resemble a calm, peaceful, silver sea.

View of the sand garden

Next to the sea of sand you can see a cone shaped structure rising 2 meters into the air. This is called the Kogetsudai, or Moon-viewing Platform. There are several theories about this mountain shaped creation. Some believe it is meant to resemble Mount Fuji, while others say it was designed as a simple mound of sand used to replenish the walkways. Still others say that the cones of this type (they are located in other temples in Japan) are meant to reflect divine light into the hearts of the visitors. No matter what the true purpose is, the Kogetsudai illuminates the Silver Pavilion on moonlight nights, making for a magnificent sight. In addition, it is said that from above the Silver Pavilion the Kogetsudai upon the Ginshaden resembles the silvery full moon reflected in a deep lake.

It is said that the famous landscape gardener Soami (1455-1525) personally designed the garden and buildings of Ginkaku-ji. Soami is believed to have been the greatest landscape artist in medieval Japan and having his name attached to a temple in any way grants immediate distinction and prestige. However there is no mention of the sand structures existing before the renovations of the Edo period, which began almost 100 years after Soami's death. This discrepancy is not uncommon in Japanese history, especially that of temples.

Coming down from the path you walk by the pond which is called Kinkyo-chi or Brocade Mirror Pond. There are two small islands called Crane and Turtle Islands. Cranes and turtles are both symbols of longevity. The islands (and some real turtles of course) float peacefully in the pond and there are several rocks, as mentioned before, scattered in and around the pond. Each of the stones has a name - for example the large stone in the center of the pond is known as "Ecstatic Contemplation" while another forms a stone bridge called the "Bridge of the pillar of the Immortal".

Sengetsu-sei (moon watching fountain)

Take your time around the pond soaking in the views. Each view is meant to conjure an image from classic Japanese or Chinese literature. The pond is completed by a small waterfall called Sengetsu-sei (moon watching fountain). The tiny trickle of water from this fall is designed to spread ripples across the water - the reflection of the moon in the water, combined with the reflection of the moonlight on the sand garden is one the highlights of Ginkakuji.

Ginkaku - The Silver Pavilion

This finally brings us to Ginkaku, the Silver Pavilion. If you have just been to Kinkaku-ji and were blown away by the dazzling golden building built there by Yoshimasa's grandfather, then you may be a bit disappointed in the Silver Pavilion. Although Yoshimasa intended to cover the pavilion in silver leaf, he either never got around to it or just got caught up in his incense room or noh plays. In any case the pavilion never has never been silver but has somehow kept its name.

This simple building consists of only two floors of similar architectural style to that of the Golden Pavilion at Kinkaku-ji. It is nothing at all like the ostentatious and more flamboyant designs of military rulers like Toyotomi Hideyoshi or the Tokugawa Shoguns. The first floor is called Shinkudan or Empty Heart Hall. It is only 5.5 meters (22 feet) by 6.7 meters (18 feet) in size and is typical of the Heian architectural style known as the shinden style, with a single large room divided into several rooms by fusama sliding panels. Enshrined on this floor is an image of Jizo, the Buddhist protector of children, who is surrounded by 1000 small Jizo images.

The second floor, named Chouonkaku (Hall of Roaring Waves) borrows its name from the Golden Pavilion at Kinkakuji. Because this floor contains a gilt Kannon (Bodhisattva of Mercy and Compassion) image, the building is sometimes called Kannon-dono (Kannon Hall). The gilt image was reputedly created by Unkei in the 13th century, and the image is resplendent against the black lacquer varnish of the room. This floor has bell shaped windows and is surrounded by a small railing. Atop the building, keeping watch over the temple, is a gilt bronze phoenix.

Chouonkaku (Hall of Roaring Waves)

The simplicity of this building, in fact the entire temple, is what makes its beauty so astounding. Be it the Ginshaden, Ginkaku, or Kinkyo-chi, each element of Ginkaku-ji blends to create a peaceful and harmonious whole.

How to get to Ginkaku-ji

1: From Kyoto Station:

Take bus 5 and get off at the Ginkaju-ji-mae stop.

2: From Okazaki:

Take the Kaisoku (Express) from JR Okazaki Station to JR Mikawa Anjo (10 minutes) or JR Nagoya Station (28 minutes). Change to a west bound Kodama shinkansen. Then take bus 5 and get off at the Ginkaju-ji-mae stop. As of writing, the tickets cost XXXX yen one way and the journey takes about XXXX minutes not including the train change.

Tours - The Japan Discovery Tours visit Ginkakuji
Click here for more information regarding when Discovery visits this destination.

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