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"a Zen garden has a "rock composition, this one in the form of a turtle, recalling the Chinese legend of the mystic islands where immortal beings dwelt on islands supported on the backs of huge turtles"
Mitchell Bring and Josse Wayembergh.
Japanese Gardens: Design and Meaning. NY, etc. McGraw-Hill Book Co., (c1981).

Saiho-ji or Koke-dera (Moss Temple) was listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1994. Founded by a priest named Gyoki in the Nara Period (710-794), it was refurbished in 1339 by Muso Kokushi/Soseki, a famous landscaper. The garden of the Buddhist Rinzai-shu sect temple is a wonderful mixture of natural beauty and landscaping and is famous for its velvety-green 120 different kinds of moss spread underneath the trees.

What is amazing about Saihoji's garden is that it was never planned to be covered in moss. Muso had planned for a garden divided into two parts, one the Chisen Kaiyu (circling pond) while the other was to be a karesansui (dry garden) type. After the garden was finished the moss naturally grew, with no help from external forces. The fact that this garden's beauty was only half planned by a man makes it genuinely sublime.

While entering Saiho-ji is not quite the 12 labours of Hercules, it does require some effort to enjoy the garden's peaceful atmosphere. You need to make a reservation. You will only be able to visit at one of a couple of set times each day. You must first write to them and make a reservation (the priests running the temple wish to keep the solemn, peaceful atmosphere intact - Saihoji is completely different to the mass tourism destinations elsewhere in Kyoto) including your name, address in Japan, occupation, age (you must be 18), number of people in your group and the date you wish to visit, along with alternate dates. Put all of this information in an envelope with a self addressed envelope (stamped or with International Reply Coupons for the return postage for the reply) and mail it to: Saiho-ji Temple, 56 Kamigaya-cho, Matsuo, Nishikyo-ku, Kyoto. (If you are already in Japan, you should send a double postcard or ofuku hagaki.) Make sure you contact them at least a few weeks ahead of time.

When get your reply and make your trip to Saiho-ji be sure to be on time for your visit. In addition to your generous donation to the temple (at the time of writing it was 3000 yen) you will take part in a Buddhist ceremony and lecture (in Japanese of course and including Sutra-writing demonstrations) after which you will be able to amble around the dark soothing garden at your leisure.

While the temple is sparse in buildings those of interest would be the two tea houses, one being Shonantei, and the Founder's Hall. Aside from those the real purpose of coming to Saihoji is to experience the magnificent garden.

The central garden is focused around a pond in the shape of the Chinese character for heart or "Kokoro". Located throughout the temple grounds, from the moment you walk in, are over 120 species of moss flowing over the ground in a soft, cool blanket of green. Even the bridges over the water have not escaped the soothing green wave. Saiho-ji is said to be at its best just after rain.

The islands within the pond are called Horai, Tsuru, and Kame and are supposed to represent the Buddhist idea of paradise. The rock formation near the Horai Isle, called Yodomari-shi, is considered to be anchored boats on the way to or from Paradise.

The dry garden of Saihoji is thought to be the first karesansui and is thought to be the example for all dry gardens in Japan, including the famous rock garden at Ryoan-ji. It is also said that the Ashikaga Shoguns - Yoshimitsu and Yoshimasa, the creators of Kinkaku-ji and Ginkaku-ji respectively, were inspired by the garden here and planned the gardens of their temples according to the style set here by Muso. Be that as it may, the rock formations are not only less harsh than those at Ryoan-ji, due to their cool coat of moss but are more ornamental, in that they are only meant to be part of the lovely scenery of the temple's garden.

How to get to Saiho-ji?

1: From Kyoto Station:

Take the Karasuma subway line to Shijo Station, transferring there to bus no. 29 to the Kokedera-michi stop.

2: From Okazaki:

Take the Kaisoku (Express) from JR Okazaki Station to JR Mikawa Anjo (10 minutes) or JR Nagoya Station (28 minutes). Change to a west bound Kodama shinkansen. Then take the Karasuma subway line to Shijo Station, transferring there to bus no. 29 to the Kokedera-michi stop. As of writing, the tickets cost XXXX yen one way and the journey takes about XXXX minutes not including the train change.

Tours - The Japan Discovery Tours visits Saihoji Temple
Click here for more information regarding when Discovery visits this destination.

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Opening hours, prices, booking procedures, schedules etc are subject to changes beyond our control. This site is just a guide, and we advise that you always check and confirm in advance. Suggestions, additions and correction of errors are always welcome. Please contact us.