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Edited by: Declan Murphy
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"Evening began to fall. "The Gion music will soon begin," said the elder daughter. "I can't imagine living any place where I would be out of earshot of the Gion music in summer." That rules out the rest of the world, and even most of Kyoto, other than a few square blocks."
Alex Kerr, Lost Japan

Introduction

On both sides of the Kamogawa river, between the area contained by Sanjo-dori (3rd street) and Shijo-dori (4th street) is Kyoto's traditional pleasure quarter. Kabuki had its start here, and there have been ochaya (teahouses) and Geisha here since the late 1500's. The narrow laneways of Pontocho offer many bars and riverside dining in the summer, while further west - the area bounded by Karasuma-dori (west), Oike-dori (north), the river (east) and Shijo-dori (south) - is the shopper's paradise with department stores and specialty shops to keep any avid consumer busy. Yasaka Shrine, popularly known as Gion-san, is on the east side. It is here that the Gion festival begins each July, and it is also the center for New Year revelry each December 31st.

Yasaka (Gion) Shrine | Gion Festival Maruyama park | Pleasure quarters | Pontocho | Teramachi | Shijo Street Shopping

Pleasure quarters: Kabuki, Geisha, Ochaya

After a century of warfare and destruction, Kyoto began to enjoy peace when the city came under the rule of Toyotomi Hideyoshi. The current geisha quarters, ochaya (teahouses) and the theaters are still located exactly where they sprang up on each side of the Kamogawa river from the late 1500's. If you want to know more information about Geisha, Kabuki, or Ochaya, there is quite detailed information in the Yamasa Student Network (password not required).

The most famous of the Ochaya is probably the Ichiriki Ochaya on the corner of Shijo-dori and Hanamikoji-dori streets. About 300 years old, this teahouse is noted for its traditional architecture and atmosphere, and also for the history that has occured here. The famous story of the Forty-Seven Ronin (masterless samurai) and the plotting against the Tokugawa Shogunate that led to the revolution known as the Meiji Restoration have close links to the Ichiriki Ochaya.

Most of the Ochaya in Kyoto were rebuilt after the devastating fires that accompanied the warfare of 1864 when Kyoto again became a battleground. The teahouses are mostly wooden, 2-story buildings of traditional design, with protruding windows. The windows have lattices (bengara goshi) on the ground floor and reed screens (sudare) on the second floors. These are to ensure the privacy of the guests. There is usually a small curtain over the entrance (these are called noren and usually have the name of the teahouse written on them). For further privacy, bamboo slats called inu yarai (dog screens) keep people (and dogs) away from the ground floor windows and walls.

In 1712, the ochaya of Gion were given licenses permitting Geisha entertainment by the Tokugawa Shogunate. Today there are just over 100 remaining, and several entire streets (primarily in Shirakawa and Gion) are preserved. In 1976, the Kyoto City government finally bagan to prevent the destruction of the architectural heritage of the ochaya and issued architectural guidelines for 7 distinct facades. The result is that these are among the few areas of the city where you can still get an idea of what Kyoto used to look like. Kyoto wasn't bombed during WWII, all of the destruction of the cityscape has been in recent years.

On November 8th at 11am each year, geisha and maiko perform a tea ceremony at a stone monument dedicated to the poet Yoshii Isamu (1886-1960). The stone inscription is one of his poems...

No matter what they say,
I love Gion.
Even in my sleep
The sound of water
Flows neneath my pillow

It records his affection for the pleasure quarters and respect for those who continue the tradition. This is in the Shirakawa-minami-dori area, a street that runs parallel to the narrow Shirakawa river (a canal). Its a traditional teahouse area with old houses and blinds. Ask someone on the day and you should be able to locate the ceremony. It is a rare chance to see these arts as language, cost, tradition and a certain exclusiveness usually prevents many foreigners from experiencing such performances.

Yasaka (Gion) Shrine | Gion Festival Maruyama park | Pleasure quarters | Pontocho | Teramachi | Shijo Street Shopping



How to get to Gion?

1: From Kyoto Station:

Take the XXXX subway line to XXXX Station or take the #206 or #207 bus to the Gion bus stop.

2: From Okazaki:

Take the Kaisoku (Express) from JR Okazaki Station to JR Mikawa Anjo (10 minutes) or JR Nagoya Station (28 minutes). Change to a west bound Kodama shinkansen. Then take the XXXX subway line to Shijo Station. As of writing, the tickets cost XXXX yen one way and the journey takes about XXXX minutes not including the train change.

Tours - The Japan Discovery Tours visits the Kyoto Pleasure Quarter
Click here for more information regarding when Discovery visits this destination.

Photographs and contributions

Do you have good photographs or a story to share about Kyoto?   Please share it with us.

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Opening hours, prices, booking procedures, schedules etc are subject to changes beyond our control. This site is just a guide, and we advise that you always check and confirm in advance. Suggestions, additions and correction of errors are always welcome. Please contact us.

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